Vienna is one of the world's great cities, the former capital of an empire that stretched from Belgium to Ukraine, whose imperial ambition expressed itself in architecture of overwhelming grandeur and a cultural life of incomparable richness. The Ringstrasse, the circular boulevard Emperor Franz Joseph I commissioned in the 1860s, lines up the Opera House, the Kunsthistorisches Museum, the Natural History Museum, Parliament, the Rathaus and the Burgtheater in a sequence of monumental buildings that constitutes the most impressive single urban planning achievement of the 19th century.
For the luxury traveller, Vienna offers a different kind of satisfaction from sun, sea and scenery, the satisfaction of a city that has been refining the arts of civilised living for several centuries, whose grand hotels (the Hotel Sacher, the Imperial, the Bristol) have been perfecting their standards since the Habsburg era, whose coffee houses (the Cafe Central, the Hawelka, the Landtmann) are institutions of Viennese intellectual and social life, and whose cultural calendar is the richest in the German-speaking world.
The Opera and Classical Music
The Vienna State Opera is the world's busiest opera house, up to 300 performances per season, a roster of the world's finest singers and conductors, and a tradition of production quality that sets the global standard. Attending an evening at the Opera, in black tie if possible, with dinner in the Sacher or Bristol beforehand, is the quintessential Vienna luxury experience. Standing room tickets (Stehplatz) are available on the day for a nominal sum, making the Opera accessible regardless of budget.
Beyond the State Opera, the Musikverein's Grosser Saal, home of the Vienna Philharmonic and venue for the famous New Year's Day Concert, is arguably the finest concert hall in the world. The Theater an der Wien (original venue for Beethoven's Fidelio and many Mozart premieres) and the Vienna Konzerthaus complete the classical music infrastructure of a city whose contribution to Western music, Haydn, Mozart, Beethoven, Schubert, Brahms, Bruckner, Mahler, Schonberg, is unparalleled.
The Museums
Vienna's museum density is extraordinary, the Kunsthistorisches Museum (one of the world's great art collections: Raphael, Vermeer, Breughel, Rubens, Rembrandt), the Albertina (Raphael, Michelangelo, Durer drawings; Monet, Picasso, Chagall in the modern collection), the Belvedere (Klimt's The Kiss and the world's largest Klimt collection), the Secession building (Klimt's Beethoven Frieze), and the Leopold Museum (Egon Schiele, the most extensive collection in the world) constitute a cultural density available in no other city of comparable size.
The Kunsthistorisches Museum's cafe, suspended in the atrium beneath the dome surrounded by Antonio Canova's sculptures, is one of the finest places for afternoon Kaffee und Kuchen in the world.
Imperial Vienna: Palaces and Gardens
The Schonbrunn Palace (1,441 rooms, the summer residence of the Habsburg emperors, its gardens extending to the hilltop Gloriette with views over the city) and the Hofburg (the imperial winter palace, covering 240,000 square metres of the first district, now housing eight museums including the Imperial Apartments and the Spanish Riding School) are the two great imperial complexes. Both require most of a day to do justice to; the Spanish Riding School's morning training sessions are accessible on separate tickets and represent one of Vienna's most atmospheric experiences.
The Belvedere, two Baroque palaces connected by formal gardens, their elevated position providing views over the entire city, contains the finest single-building art collection in Vienna. The Upper Belvedere's Klimt room alone justifies the visit.
Hotels, Coffee Houses and Cuisine
Vienna's grand hotels are institutions in the truest sense. The Sacher (behind the Opera, home of the original Sachertorte, its Red Bar one of the great hotel bars of Europe), the Imperial (on the Ringstrasse, where Richard Wagner and Marlene Dietrich stayed), the Bristol (opposite the Opera, with the finest views in Vienna) and the Park Hyatt (in a magnificent early 20th-century bank building) represent the pinnacle of Viennese hospitality. The coffee house culture, tables of marble, newspapers on wooden holders, waiters in long aprons, is a UNESCO-recognised intangible cultural heritage and essential to any Vienna visit.
Frequently Asked Questions
When is the best time to visit Vienna?
Vienna is a year-round destination. Spring (April to June) brings the concert season to its peak and the parks to flower. Summer (July to August) has the warmest temperatures but some major companies are on tour. Autumn (September to November) offers the new concert and opera season. The Christmas markets (late November to December) are among Europe's finest. Winter opera and concert performances continue throughout.
How many days do you need in Vienna?
Three to four days allows a focused visit to the major museums and palaces, Opera attendance and exploration of the coffee house culture. Five to six days allows for deeper exploration including day trips to Klosterneuburg, Heiligenkreuz or the Vienna Woods.
How do you get to Vienna from the UK?
Direct flights from London Heathrow and Gatwick to Vienna operate with British Airways, Austrian Airlines and easyJet. The flight takes approximately two and a quarter hours. The Vienna Airport train (CAT, City Airport Train) connects to the city centre in 16 minutes.
Is Vienna good for families?
Vienna is excellent for culturally curious families, the Kunsthistorisches Museum's family programmes, the Prater amusement park with the historic Riesenrad Ferris wheel, the Schonbrunn Zoo (Europe's oldest, dating from 1752) and the interactive Naturhistorisches Museum are all outstanding. The city is very walkable and the public transport system is world-class.
