Machu Picchu endures as one of humanity's most astonishing creations, an Inca citadel built at 2,430 metres on a narrow ridge between two mountains, its terraces and temples aligned with astronomical precision, its construction methods still not fully understood, its abandonment before Spanish contact leaving it undisturbed until Hiram Bingham's 1911 expedition. To arrive in the early morning before the main crowds, with mist rising from the cloud forest below and the sun illuminating the carved stonework from the east, is an experience that transcends the hyperbole that usually surrounds it.
But Peru is far more than Machu Picchu. The Sacred Valley of the Incas, stretching between Cusco and Pisac, contains Inca agricultural terraces, living indigenous markets and the extraordinary fortress of Ollantaytambo that rivals anything on the main circuit. Cusco itself, the navel of the Inca world, overlaid with Spanish colonial architecture on Inca stone foundations, is one of South America's most captivating cities.
Machu Picchu: The Luxury Approach
The Belmond Hiram Bingham train from Cusco to Aguas Calientes is one of the world's great rail journeys, a three-and-a-half-hour descent through the Sacred Valley and into the cloud forest, with observation cars, a refined lunch service and commentary on the landscape passing outside. The luxury approach transforms the logistics of reaching Machu Picchu from a potentially exhausting exercise into a genuine part of the experience.
Casa Andina Private Collection Machu Picchu, the Inkaterra Machu Picchu Pueblo Hotel (whose cloud forest gardens contain rescued orchids and the native spectacled bear) and the Belmond Sanctuary Lodge, the only hotel adjacent to the site entrance, represent the top accommodation options. An early morning first entrance (5:30am) before the main groups arrive is available and essential to arrange in advance.
Cusco and the Sacred Valley
Cusco requires two to three days of acclimatisation and exploration. At 3,400 metres, altitude sickness is a genuine consideration, arriving a day early, drinking coca leaf tea and avoiding strenuous activity on arrival makes the transition manageable for most travellers. The Plaza de Armas, Qorikancha (the Inca Temple of the Sun, its foundations beneath a Dominican church), the artisan markets of San Blas and the Sacsayhuaman fortress above the city reward extended exploration.
The Sacred Valley's market town of Pisac (Sunday market), the Inca citadel of Ollantaytambo and the salt mines of Maras are best explored with a private guide who can provide context that transforms impressive ruins into comprehensible history. Hacienda hotels in the Sacred Valley, Explora Valle Sagrado and Inkaterra Hacienda Urubamba, provide a tranquil base from which to explore the valley at a more relaxed pace than staying in Cusco.
Beyond the Inca Trail
The classic Inca Trail to Machu Picchu (four days, 45km) requires booking months in advance due to strict permit limits. For those seeking a less-crowded alternative, the Salkantay Trek (five days, approaching via the glaciated Salkantay Pass) and the Lares Trek (through living Andean communities) offer comparable landscape drama with different cultural emphasis. Alternatively, the Vistadome train to Aguas Calientes combined with bus access to the site provides the same destination with minimal hiking.
The luxury extension of adding Peru's Amazon, reached by flights from Cusco to Puerto Maldonado and then boat to a lodge in the Tambopata National Reserve, creates a Peru itinerary of extraordinary ecological range, from Andean peaks to cloud forest to lowland Amazon jungle.
Lake Titicaca and Beyond
Lake Titicaca, straddling the Peru-Bolivia border at 3,800 metres, is the world's highest navigable lake, a vast, improbably blue expanse surrounded by altiplano plains and snow-capped peaks. The floating reed islands of the Uros people and the Inca sacred island of Isla del Sol provide compelling day excursions from Puno, and the Titilaka Lodge, set directly on the lakeshore, offers the finest base for exploring the lake with exceptional comfort.
Frequently Asked Questions
How do you avoid the crowds at Machu Picchu?
Book the earliest entrance slot (5:30am) available, which is significantly less crowded than later in the day. Weekdays are less busy than weekends. The shoulder seasons of April to May and September to October offer the best combination of weather and manageable visitor numbers.
Is altitude sickness a problem in Peru?
Cusco at 3,400m and the altiplano at 3,800m are high enough to cause altitude sickness in some travellers. Machu Picchu at 2,430m is generally easier. We recommend arriving a day early in Cusco, staying hydrated, avoiding alcohol for the first 24 hours and taking things slowly. Medication such as acetazolamide is available on prescription from your GP.
When is the best time to visit Machu Picchu?
The dry season (May to October) offers the most reliable weather and clearest views. The wet season (November to April) has more rainfall but fewer visitors and the surrounding cloud forest is lush and dramatic. The spring months of September and October are often considered the sweet spot of good weather and manageable crowds.
How long should a Peru holiday be?
Ten to twelve days allows for Cusco, Sacred Valley, Machu Picchu and either Lima or Lake Titicaca. Fourteen to sixteen days opens up the Amazon extension or a deeper exploration of the Sacred Valley and Cusco.
