Jordan occupies a unique position in Middle Eastern travel, a country of extraordinary historical depth, dramatic desert landscapes and genuine warmth, positioned at the crossroads of ancient civilisations. Petra, the Nabataean city carved into rose-red sandstone over two millennia ago, is one of the world's great archaeological wonders, and its scale and complexity continues to astonish even the most seasoned traveller. But Jordan offers far more than Petra alone.
Wadi Rum's vast desert landscape of sandstone massifs and red sand plains has been the backdrop for films from Lawrence of Arabia to The Martian, and sleeping in an exclusive desert camp beneath a sky of extraordinary star density is one of the Middle East's finest experiences. The Dead Sea, sitting 430 metres below sea level as the lowest point on earth's surface, combines the bizarre physical experience of effortless floating with mineral-rich muds and one of the region's finest spa hotels.
Petra: The Rose-Red City
Petra was the capital of the Nabataean Kingdom, a sophisticated desert trading civilisation whose control of the incense routes made them immensely wealthy, and whose architectural achievement carved an entire city from the sandstone cliffs of southern Jordan. The Treasury (Al-Khazneh) is Petra's most iconic image, a 40-metre facade of classical columns and carved figures that appears at the end of the narrow Siq canyon with a theatrical impact that invariably produces silence from even the most experienced of travellers.
Beyond the Treasury lies a vast archaeological complex that takes days to fully explore, colonnaded streets, carved tombs, a Roman theatre, Byzantine churches with intact mosaic floors, and the Monastery (Al-Deir), requiring 800 rock-cut steps to reach and rewarding the effort with a facade even larger than the Treasury and views across the desert to the horizon. The Petra by Night experience, the Siq lit by 1,500 candles twice weekly, transforms the site into something almost supernatural.
Wadi Rum: Desert Luxury Under Stars
Wadi Rum is 720 square kilometres of protected desert wilderness, a UNESCO World Heritage landscape of towering sandstone and granite massifs rising from plains of red and orange sand. Lawrence of Arabia wrote of it as 'vast, echoing and God-like', and the scale and silence of the desert remains overwhelming. Jeep tours with Bedouin guides, camel treks and scrambling on the rock formations provide daytime activity; the nights are extraordinary for their silence and star visibility.
The luxury camp offering in Wadi Rum has grown considerably, operators like Sun City Camp and Memories Aicha Luxury Camp offer private bubbles and tents of considerable comfort within the protected area, and the contrast between luxury camp amenities and the austere desert surrounding them is part of the appeal. A night or two in Wadi Rum is an essential Jordan experience.
The Dead Sea and Amman
The Dead Sea's extraordinary hypersalinity, 34% salt compared to the ocean's 3.5%, makes floating effortless and swimming impossible. The mineral-rich black mud found along the shoreline has genuine therapeutic properties and has been used for millennia. The Kempinski Hotel Ishtar Dead Sea and the Marriott Dead Sea Resort offer the finest facilities, including private beach areas and spa programmes built around Dead Sea minerals.
Amman, Jordan's capital, rewards a day or two of exploration, the Roman theatre, the Citadel with its Umayyad Palace, and a food scene centred around Rainbow Street that has emerged as one of the Middle East's most interesting. The National Archaeological Museum in the Citadel houses artefacts from the Dead Sea Scrolls' original site alongside extraordinary objects from throughout Jordan's deep history.
Practical Jordan Travel
Jordan is one of the Middle East's most accessible and welcoming destinations for Western travellers. The Jordan Pass (purchased online before travel) covers the visa fee and entry to over 40 attractions including Petra, representing excellent value. Spring (March to May) and autumn (September to November) offer the most comfortable temperatures for outdoor exploration; summers are very hot but manageable with early morning starts. Flights from London to Amman take approximately five hours with Royal Jordanian and British Airways both offering direct services.
Frequently Asked Questions
How many days do you need in Petra?
A minimum of two full days in Petra allows you to see the main sights including the Treasury, the Colonnaded Street, the High Place of Sacrifice and the Monastery. Three days allows for more exploration and the Petra by Night experience. Many travellers feel they could spend longer.
Is Jordan safe to visit?
Jordan is widely considered one of the most stable and safe countries in the Middle East. It has an open and welcoming culture and receives millions of tourists annually. Standard travel precautions apply as they would anywhere.
What is the best time to visit Jordan?
Spring (March to May) is ideal, comfortable temperatures, wildflowers in the desert and long daylight hours. October and November offer similar conditions. December to February can be cold, especially in Petra and Wadi Rum, but the reduced crowds are a significant advantage.
Can you combine Jordan with Israel or Egypt?
Yes, the Jordan Aqaba crossing to Israel's Eilat is efficient, and Egypt can be reached by ferry from Aqaba to Nuweiba. These combinations allow for compelling regional itineraries covering multiple ancient civilisations.
