Cartagena de Indias is one of the most beautiful colonial cities in the Americas, a walled port city on Colombia's Caribbean coast whose 13 kilometres of historic fortifications enclose a labyrinth of cobblestone streets, flower-draped balconies, bougainvillea-covered courtyards and churches of considerable grandeur. The city was Colombia's most important Spanish colonial port, the primary conduit for South American gold and silver flowing to Spain, and its fortifications were among the most elaborate in the New World.
For the luxury traveller, Cartagena has emerged as one of South America's most compelling city destinations, a combination of extraordinary architectural beauty, excellent restaurants, a Caribbean setting with offshore islands, and a boutique hotel culture that has transformed the Old Town's historic palaces and merchant houses into some of the finest small hotels in the Americas. The Hotel Santa Clara, the Bastión Luxury Hotel and Casa San Agustin represent the top of a hotel inventory that is genuinely extraordinary.
The Old Town and the Walled City
Cartagena's Old Town (Ciudad Amurallada) is UNESCO World Heritage-listed and is best explored on foot, the heat of the day makes early morning (6-9am) and evening the most pleasant times, but the architecture rewards exploration at any hour. The Plaza de los Coches (once the city's slave market, now a shaded square of arcaded buildings), the Plaza Santo Domingo, the Cathedral Basilica and the Palace of the Inquisition cluster the major civic spaces within a ten-minute walk of each other.
The city walls themselves, walkable for much of their length, provide sunset views over the Caribbean and the Bocagrande beach district that have made them one of South America's most photographed settings. The San Felipe de Barajas fortress on the hill above the city, the most sophisticated Spanish colonial fortification in the Americas, with a tunnel system of extraordinary complexity, rewards a morning's exploration.
Getsemani and the New Creative Quarter
Getsemani, immediately outside the city walls, was until recently considered off the main tourist circuit. Its rapid transformation into Cartagena's most interesting neighbourhood, artists' studios, independent restaurants, craft cocktail bars and street art covering entire building facades, has made it essential to any visit. The Plaza de la Trinidad, Getsemani's central square, is the social hub of this transformation: low-key bars, excellent Caribbean food and an authentic local atmosphere that the Old Town, at its most tourist-dense, cannot match.
The boutique hotel culture has extended into Getsemani, with several converted merchant houses now offering intimate accommodation in a neighbourhood that feels genuinely local alongside the tourist infrastructure.
The Rosario Islands
The Islas del Rosario, a coral archipelago 45 minutes by speedboat from Cartagena, offer the Caribbean island experience that the mainland coast cannot provide, clear shallow water over coral, uninhabited beaches, excellent snorkelling and a handful of small boutique resorts for overnight stays. Isla Grande, the largest, has several beach clubs and dive operations; the tiny private islands around it offer the most secluded experiences.
The catamaran crossing from the marina passes the enormous Castillo San Fernando (an 18th-century island fortress designed to protect the channel approaches to Cartagena) and the mangrove channels of the Barú peninsula, providing context for the city's colonial maritime history.
Food and Nightlife
Cartagena's restaurant scene has accelerated dramatically in recent years, the combination of Colombia's extraordinary agricultural biodiversity, a strong Afro-Caribbean culinary tradition and an influx of international chefs has created a food culture of genuine depth. La Cevicheria (celebrated for its seafood), Carmen (modern Colombian cuisine in a restored colonial mansion) and Alma (the restaurant within Casa San Agustin) represent the top of a scene that extends to excellent street food in the markets of Getsemani and Bazurto.
Frequently Asked Questions
Is Cartagena safe for tourists?
The Old Town and tourist areas are generally safe for visitors who take standard precautions. Cartagena is one of Colombia's most visited cities and has a well-developed tourist infrastructure. We provide up-to-date local safety advice as part of all Colombia itineraries.
When is the best time to visit Cartagena?
December to April is the dry season and the most pleasant, lower humidity, cooling Caribbean breezes and reliable sunshine. The city is busiest around Christmas and New Year. May to November is wetter, but many travellers find the lower prices and reduced crowds attractive during this period.
How do you get to Cartagena from the UK?
There are no direct flights from the UK to Cartagena. Connections via Bogota (Avianca), Madrid (Iberia) or Miami (American) are the most common routings. Total journey time is typically 14-16 hours. Bogota is well worth including as a 2-night extension, combining the colonial Candelaria district with Cartagena.
Can you combine Cartagena with other Colombian destinations?
Cartagena combines naturally with Medellin (a 50-minute flight, for its transformation narrative, street art and surrounding flower country) and the Coffee Region (Eje Cafetero, for hacienda hotels in plantation country). A ten to twelve day Colombia itinerary covering Cartagena, Medellin and the Coffee Region provides an extraordinary variety of experiences.
