The Canadian Rockies contain some of the most spectacular mountain scenery in the world, a UNESCO World Heritage landscape of glacier-fed turquoise lakes, soaring limestone peaks, ancient icefields and wilderness of extraordinary scale. The combination of world-class infrastructure (the Fairmont hotels, the heritage railway lodges, the Icefields Parkway rated by National Geographic as the world's most scenic drive) with genuine wilderness accessed from comfortable bases makes this one of the finest mountain destinations for the luxury traveller.
The gateway to the Canadian Rockies is Banff, Canada's oldest national park and a town of considerable charm at 1,400 metres altitude in the Bow Valley, surrounded by mountains on every side. Lake Louise, 57 kilometres northwest, is the most photographed lake in Canada, its extraordinary turquoise colour (fed by glacial rock flour suspended in the meltwater) backed by the Victoria Glacier and the Fairmont Chateau Lake Louise is an image known worldwide, but even the most jaded traveller finds the reality more beautiful than the photograph.
Banff and Lake Louise
Banff townsite is an anomaly, a commercial town of restaurants, boutiques and hotels within a national park, sustained by the 4 million visitors who pass through annually. The Fairmont Banff Springs, a castle-like hotel perched above the confluence of the Bow and Spray rivers and opened in 1888, is one of the great railway hotels of North America, its baronial Scottish baronial architecture seems designed specifically for this mountain landscape. The Rimrock Resort Hotel on the hillside above town provides a more contemporary alternative with exceptional views.
Lake Louise rewards visiting in both summer and winter. In summer, the turquoise water, the shoreline walk to the Plain of Six Glaciers teahouse and the canoe rental from the lakeside boathouse create a day of effortless beauty. In winter, the lake freezes and becomes an outdoor skating rink, the surrounding slopes open for skiing at Lake Louise Ski Resort, and the ice castle built annually on the frozen lake surface becomes one of Canada's most extraordinary temporary structures.
The Icefields Parkway
The Icefields Parkway (Highway 93) runs 232 kilometres from Lake Louise north to Jasper through the most spectacular mountain scenery in the Americas, a drive of three to four hours at normal speed but which demands a full day or two to do justice to the stops. Peyto Lake (its wolf-shaped turquoise lake at its most brilliant from the viewpoint above), Bow Lake (a large, shallow turquoise lake beneath Bow Glacier), the Columbia Icefield (the largest accumulation of ice in the Rocky Mountains south of Alaska, where the Athabasca Glacier can be walked upon on guided tours) and Sunwapta Falls are the principal stops.
The Glacier Skywalk at the Columbia Icefield, a glass-floored walkway over a 280-metre cliff above the Sunwapta Valley, provides an adrenaline-adjacent experience that contrasts pleasantly with the serene lake scenery elsewhere on the parkway. The Num-Ti-Jah Lodge at Bow Lake is a historic wilderness lodge of considerable atmosphere, ideal for an overnight break mid-parkway.
Wildlife in the Rockies
The Canadian Rockies offer some of the most accessible large wildlife viewing in North America, grizzly and black bears are frequently seen along the Icefields Parkway and in the Kananaskis Country south of Banff, particularly in September and October when they are feeding intensively before hibernation. Elk are ubiquitous in Banff townsite and along the Bow Valley, wolf packs range through the park in winter, and mountain goats and bighorn sheep are regular roadside encounters on the higher passes.
Wildlife watching is best done at dawn and dusk from a vehicle on the main roads, the park's professional wildlife guides offer specialist tours that dramatically increase encounter rates and provide context for what you're seeing. A dedicated wildlife drive along the Bow Valley Parkway (the historic route parallel to the Trans-Canada Highway) is the most reliable way to see bears, wolves and elk in a single morning.
Jasper and the Northern Rockies
Jasper National Park, at the northern end of the Icefields Parkway, is larger and wilder than Banff, the town is smaller, the infrastructure less developed and the sense of genuine wilderness more immediate. Maligne Lake (reached by a 45-minute drive from Jasper, its Spirit Island a frequently photographed landmark) and the Miette Hot Springs (the hottest in the Canadian Rockies, in a remote valley north of Jasper) are the park's signature attractions. The Fairmont Jasper Park Lodge, on the shores of Lac Beauvert with its golf course backed by mountain scenery of extraordinary quality, is one of Canada's most complete wilderness resort experiences.
Frequently Asked Questions
When is the best time to visit the Canadian Rockies?
Summer (July to August) offers the warmest temperatures, accessible hiking and the maximum daylight hours. The lakes are at their most brilliant turquoise colour. September and October bring golden larches (a unique Rockies experience), wildlife feeding activity and the first snow on the peaks creating dramatic contrasts. Winter (December to March) is exceptional for skiing and ice activities. June can be cold and the high passes sometimes remain snowbound.
How do you get to Banff from the UK?
Calgary International Airport is the nearest major airport, direct flights operate from London Heathrow with British Airways and Air Canada. The flight takes approximately nine hours. Banff is 90 minutes by road from Calgary Airport; private transfers are the most comfortable option. Alternatively, the Rocky Mountaineer luxury train from Vancouver to Banff is one of the world's great rail journeys.
Is the Canadian Rockies trip suitable for families?
Excellent for families, the combination of accessible wildlife viewing, scenic drives, lake canoe hire, hiking trails at all difficulty levels and the excellent family facilities at the Fairmont properties make it one of the world's finest family wilderness destinations. Children's programming at the Fairmont Banff Springs and Lake Louise is outstanding.
How many days do you need in the Canadian Rockies?
Seven to ten days allows for Banff, Lake Louise, the Icefields Parkway and Jasper at a comfortable pace. Ten to fourteen days allows for additional hiking, wildlife drives and activities. The region rewards slower travel, the sense of wilderness builds cumulatively with time spent.
